A Pot of Greens Made of Love, Recipe + Thoughts + a Playlist
Words by: Nicole Johnson of Our Gathering | Music by: Abby Yemm
Hi, Nellies! We are excited to introduce guest writers to this space. This piece, by Nicole of Our Gathering, is about food and family and African American culture. Nicole is a local chef, entrepreneur, and beautiful human.
I have long loved the smell and sound of 3 a.m. on the morning of Thanksgiving. Growing up, I'd creep down the stairs to find my dad over a large basin of greens soaking in saltwater, "picking" greens and singing along to Aretha Franklin's gospel album. The day before, we would have gone to the store to purchase about 24 large bunches of greens, generally mustard and collard.
I remember seeing him and, at other times, my grandmothers standing over the sink picking the greens. Getting into the rhythm of the old school music, washing and picking each and every leaf. The "picking" part was never my favorite, but I could ALWAYS get behind devouring a bowl of collards. I need mine topped with a little splash of hot sauce and a nice slice of honey cornbread on the side!
Greens are a beloved staple among most African American families. Collard greens were among a few vegetables that enslaved people could cultivate for themselves, thus birthing southern-style collard greens. Greens have been passed down many generations and continue to be eaten today as a main or side dish. Every home where I've had them for dinner, they were unique to that family. I will tell you how I make my collard greens at home—first, a little lesson.
'Greens' can mean mixed variations of collard, turnip, and mustard — it’s dependent on which leaf the cook likes. I enjoy the versatility of the greens. Mustard and turnip greens have a peppery taste, while collards can be a little bitter. The leaves of collards are hearty, thus taking a little time to break down. Patience is key.
Traditionally, greens would be made with ham or ham hocks, but for the sake of our arteries and those who do not eat pork, we are cooking ours with smoked turkey. Turkey necks are usually what I would grab. You can get several pieces in a package for about $4. If you love a good splurge and would like a little more meat than the necks offer, go for a smoked turkey leg or wing. The smoked meat will give your broth a lovely aroma and taste that will have you sopping it up with your cornbread shamelessly!
Time to get into the process of making your pot of greens. Step one is essential; we are going to wash and soak them. Fill a basin with cold water and a generous amount of salt. We are going to soak these babies for an hour. The leaves generally come straight from the ground and are covered in dirt and sand, making the wash necessary.
Earlier I mentioned "picking" greens. It simply means to remove the leaf from the stem. This is a tedious task that takes a bit of time. We're going to wash the greens, pick them in the water, and discard the stem. When the leaves are done soaking and all the stems are removed, give them a delightful little rinse. If they soak for a while, they should only need to be rinsed a couple of times until the water runs clear.
Then we tear the leaves or chop them. Either method works; we just want them to be a bit more bite-sized and manageable. You can buy bagged collards that are already sliced, but you'll still want to wash and soak them.
Every greens recipe I have come across is different — even the ingredient list. Everyone has their take on the recipe, which keeps the tradition and competitive spirit to make the best pot alive.
With greens and other recipes passed down for generations, we celebrate Black history at every mealtime. These recipes don't start or end with slavery. Food was brought from the Motherland, and using what is native to where we live, the recipes continue to inspire and feed the hearts of those here today. Black history is rich and deep, and I love that I get to explore it with food.
The best way I know how to share that love and light passed on to me is by feeding you. May you have a little bit of my heart and home with you at your family gatherings.
Ingredients:
3 bunches of collard greens
Smoked turkey necks (2-4), wing or leg
5 quarts water
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 large yellow onion
4-6 cloves of garlic
5 stalks of celery (will be removed just before adding greens)
Bell peppers, diced
1 tablespoon chicken bouillon
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon all-purpose seasoning (I use Badia Complete)
1/2 tablespoon cumin
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes (more if you like it a little spicier)
Salt and Pepper to taste
Directions:
Fill a basin with water and a generous amount of salt. Place greens in saltwater and allow to soak for an hour. De-stem collard greens, place back in the water and discard the stems. You can slice or tear the collards at this point. Once the hour is up, rinse the collards thoroughly until the water runs clear.
While greens are soaking, prepare the broth. In a pot, add all ingredients except for the collards. Bring the water to a boil and allow all of the flavors to come together for about an hour.
Once greens are clean and the broth has been boiling, remove the celery and add the rinsed collard greens.
Reduce heat and allow greens to cook for about an hour or until tender.
You can garnish with Chow-Chow, hot sauce, or vinegar. Serve with my cornbread recipe found here.
Enjoy!
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